If you’re an avid diver or even a thrill-seeking adventurer, Fakarava South in the Tuamotus is a destination that should be on your bucket list. This remote and pristine atoll in French Polynesia offers an unparalleled underwater experience, especially for those fascinated by marine life.
When I first anchored my 27-foot sailboat in the calm waters of Fakarava, I was greeted by an unusual sight. Beneath my boat, remora fish eagerly awaited any scraps of food I might toss overboard, darting towards every morsel with remarkable speed. As I prepared for my first diving adventure, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and trepidation.
The Journey to Fakarava South
My diving adventure began with the Enata Fakarava Diving club, who picked me up in their rib at my boot moored in Hirifa. The speed and efficiency of the rib were astonishing; what had taken me three hours to sail the previous day was a mere 20-minute ride with them. The anticipation built as we sped towards the dive sites, the wind and spray adding to the sense of adventure.
Dive One: Passe Tumakohua “Les Roses”
Our first dive was at Passe Tumakohua, also known as “Les Roses.” Clémence, our charming and knowledgeable divemaster, briefed us before we descended into the crystal-clear waters. Her advice was to focus on the smaller fish for this dive, as we would have plenty of opportunities to observe the sharks later. However, this proved easier said than done. The waters teemed with vibrant schools of fish, yet the imposing presence of sharks swimming through these schools was impossible to ignore.
In Fakarava North, you might encounter around 100 sharks. Here, in the South, the number soars to an astonishing 700. The sheer number of these magnificent creatures was both awe-inspiring and slightly intimidating. The sharks glided effortlessly through the water, a stark reminder of the raw power and beauty of nature.
Dive Two: Passe Tumakohua “L’Observatoire”
Our second dive, also at Passe Tumakohua but in a different section known as “L’Observatoire,” was even more exhilarating. This time, we aimed to experience the famed “wall of sharks.” With an incoming current, we drifted along the right side, watching in amazement as hundreds of sharks swam purposefully towards the pass. The sight was nothing short of spectacular.
We then entered a cave, finding a perfect vantage point to sit and observe the sharks as they continued their journey. It was a moment of pure serenity and excitement, witnessing these apex predators in their natural habitat, moving with such grace and precision.
Reflections on the Adventure
Looking back, I am incredibly grateful for this opportunity. Diving with sharks in Fakarava South was an experience that pushed me beyond my comfort zone and rewarded me with unforgettable memories. It’s a reminder that facing our fears can lead to some of the most fulfilling and joyous experiences in life.
As I emerged from the water, the initial fear had transformed into exhilaration. The sense of accomplishment and happiness that followed was profound. If you ever find yourself contemplating whether to take on an adventure that scares you, I wholeheartedly encourage you to dive in – quite literally. The rewards are immense, and the experiences are invaluable.
Bio
My name is Jacqueline Evers from The Netherlands. Solo sailing around the world in my 27 foot sloop. While my husband and son may have chosen a different path, their unwavering support fuels my solo pursuit of this lifelong dream.
Not confined by age or the constraints of conventional life, in my 50s, I bravely departed from the rat race, trading it for the serenity of the open sea. Through my unscripted videos and blogs, I offer a glimpse into the authentic tapestry of my sailing
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